Posts Tagged ‘Wine’

Vintage 2003: A Challenge To Creation

To claim that the 2003 vintage came as a challenge would be an understatement! In a year of extremes and superlatives, the very unusual climate (which is imprinted into the collective memory of the Champenois) lead to a small and early harvest. The nature of the vintage, in tension with the character of Dom Pérignon, created a duality, the exuberance and austerity playing off each other. The vintage contributed expectations of a rich and solar wine, while the Dom Pérignon signature provided an intense, fresh and firm character. I was tasting several great bottles of 1947 with Francois Audouze recently at the Château de Saran, and I noted how daring the persons who shaped these wines had been at the time, never refusing the challenge of such a solar year but rather embracing it, thereby creating a tribute to the singularity of the vintage. I am grateful to have taken the same opportunity with the 2003 vintage, which I feel is resolutely in line with its elders of 1947, 1959 and 1976.

Vintage 2003 was the perfect occasion to prove our ultimate commitment to the vintage, and to our philosophy of risk-taking, and wine critics and writers have acknowledged that. I wanted to share the moment of declaration of the vintage with this audience.

Today, wine experts worldwide are invited to premiere Dom Pérignon Vintage 2003. Screens connecting Paris, London, New York, Hong Kong and Tokyo will allow our guests to taste at the same time, while I will be hosting the event from Paris. A specific Twitter hashtag (#dpdeclares) is used for this occasion. You are most welcome to follow the conversation, on Twitter @r_geoffroy and reading the first reactions on www.2003.domperignon.com.

The 2003 Dom Pérignon has already received numerous accolades: Bruce Sanderson (The Wine Spectator) lauded its “impressive core of fruit and structure” as well as its “finish that retained elegance, freshness, finesse and complexity”; Antonio Galloni (The Wine Advocate) declared it “one of the most thoughtprovoking Champagnes I have tasted in a long time”; Richard Juhlin simply named it his Champagne of the vintage and noted its long aging potential.

Dom Pérignon Vintage 2003 will be available in three weeks. I look forward to traveling the world and sharing this great vintage.

Early look at 2010

Hautvilliers Abbey under the snow - Richard Geoffroy

We have been tasting the 2010 base wines no fewer than three times in the past couple of months. It only confirms the first impressions we had at the end of the harvest. My feeling at this stage is that the 2010 vintage does not deserve the lukewarm comments by some. The Chardonnays have developed brilliantly, sometimes on the verge of over-ripeness (reminiscent in this of 2002) with a rich mouthfeel and a striking fruitiness. However Dom Pérignon is always an assemblage, and the other side of the picture is just as critical: the Pinot Noirs were carefully and properly sorted at the time of picking. They all display good structure and presence, but are maybe lacking a bit in freshness and vibrancy. It will be interesting to see how these Pinots evolve until we prepare the final assemblage in the early Spring of 2011. We will only then make up our mind: to declare or not to declare.

Milestone

Cellar Door at Hautvillers Abbey

Dom Pérignon Œnothèque was launched in 2000, long enough ago to look back on what started like a revolution and now feels so natural. We went full circle earlier this year through the addition of Rosé to the Œnothèque program—this was quite an event! Our offer remains limited but consistent, with only two assemblages, White and Rosé, each available in successive Vintage and Œnothèque releases. Ten years ago, when we decided to open the door of our wine library and make the treasures of Dom Pérignon available to the outside world, my feeling was first and foremost of pride. Nothing personal, as I did not create these vintages, yet proud I was of the incredible longevity of Dom Pérignon and the contributions of my predecessors. The former Chefs de Cave had indeed been visionary enough to put all these great vintages aside, purely for the sake of memory and legacy.

Bottles in the wine library of Dom Pérignon Bottles in the wine library of Dom Pérignon

Dom Pérignon keeps pushing one step further, sometimes rewriting the rules, to pave the path for renewed experiences. So does Œnothèque, glorifying the exclusive process of actively aging a wine on its lees to offer a magnified style through re-releases. Œnothèque prolongs the character of the original Vintage wine, coming ever closer to the ideal of Dom Pérignon. The patience of wine lovers is now rewarded with a deeper, more intimate discovery and perception of Dom Pérignon. The current Vintage is put in proper perspective by giving a glimpse of the aging potential. It would now be virtually impossible for me to imagine Dom Pérignon without its Œnothèque expression.

Bottles in the wine library of Dom Pérignon
Bottles in the wine library of Dom Pérignon

Photos: Mi-Hyun Kim

At The King’s Table

(c) Palace of Versailles / Todd Eberle

Great wines are blessed with a transcendental quality: they are the time machine bringing the finite of fruit into the infinite realm of imagination and emotion. One year ago (to the very day!), we embarked on a journey back to the seventeenth century, the Palace of Versailles and the Sun King’s table, with the help of Dom Pérignon Œnothèque.

Galerie des Glaces / Todd Eberle Waiting for the guests / Todd Eberle Magnums of 1976 Dom Pérignon Œnothèque / Michel Jolyot
Welcoming guests and announcing the menu / Michel Jolyot

Pierre Pérignon, unanimously recognized as the spiritual father of Champagne, was the exact contemporary of Louis XIV. We know that the Sun King loved Père Pérignon’s wine more than any other; cases upon cases were ordered for his court and his table. More than three centuries later, it was legitimate to go full circle and hold an incredible event in homage to the King and his vision of a luxury à la Française, re-creating the mythical Sun King’s Table. But more than a re-creation, it had to be a performance, a true ceremony in the name of pleasure: in the Antichambre du Grand Couvert, the exact place where the King took his meals every evening, re-opened for the first time for a reception, a banquet prepared by Jean-François Piège in the spirit of the era, served by waiters in livery, and accompanied by a unique wine throughout: the solar 1976 Dom Pérignon Œnothèque.

Pouring 1976 Dom Pérignon Œnothèque from magnum / Michel Jolyot
'Barley grain' flutes / Todd Eberle
Table layout and decoration / Michel Jolyot Pheasants / Todd Eberle