Posts Tagged ‘Legacy’

Preserving the Past

The abbey of Hautvillers remains for me the place of inspiration and vision that it was in the time of dom Pierre Pérignon. Founded circa 650 by Saint Nivard, and home to the relics of Saint Helena since 841, Hautvillers survived the vicissitudes of history in an unbroken cycle of destruction and rebirth. Pillaged by the Normans in 882, plundered during the Hundred Years War, sacked during the Wars of Religion, damaged after the French Revolution and during the World Wars, Hautvillers was rebuilt several times, once thanks to a gift from Catherine de Medici.

The Tipping Point

The presence of the relics brought fame, pilgrims and riches to the Abbey. A young monk called dom Pierre Pérignon was named cellarer in 1668, at 29 years of age. He immediately set out to develop the abbey (creating a dormitory, rebuilding the cloister, erecting a new entrance and adding the Gates of Saint Helena); to enlarge the holdings (Hautvillers became the largest vineyard in Champagne at ten times the size of the average property); and to modernise the winemaking (selecting of grapes for the assemblage or renovating the wine presses). Under dom Pierre Pérignon’s guidance, the destiny of the Abbey became forever linked to viticulture and winemaking, and during the reign of Louis XIV Hautvillers became famous as much for its sparkling wine as for its spiritual importance.

Nearly 200 years after dom Pierre Pérignon’s death, the time for renovation had come again. In 2009 we commissioned a study in order to restore the gates of Saint Helena, the cloisters and the gardens employing special techniques from the 17th century. The gates and the cloister being French Heritage Sites, the work was supervised by an architect from the “Bâtiments de France”. Overlooking the gardens which offer a history of viticultural practices, the former library of the cloister has been restored to its former glory—its contemplative and serene aura providing the perfect setting for Dom Pérignon tastings. Finally, ruins discovered at the end of the 1980s following archeological excavations have been secured for further study. After three years of planning and labor, the renovations are now complete.

Like the men who left their mark in Hautvillers through architecture, contemplation and working the land, dom Pérignon was a temporary guardian, whose legacy lives on through the seminal treatise written by Brother Pierre, his disciple and successor, and titled “Treatise of the Vine Culture of Champagne”. The Abbey is still home to this unique and precious tome, both tangible links between past and present, symbols of modernity and tradition. The legacy of the Abbey of Hautvillers is beyond technical, it is first and foremost spiritual. Inspiration finds me here, as I walk its grounds and I become one with this space, with no objective other than remaining true to the timeless essence of Dom Pérignon.

Dom Pérignon Vintage 2003

Dom Pérignon is, and has always been, exclusively a vintage wine. I could be content with simply letting the vintage express its characteristics through the wine; however, in a constant effort to push the envelope, it is crucial to go one step further: we embrace the vintage and confront it to the singularity of Dom Pérignon in an act of creation.

The growing season shapes a vintage, but rarely as much as in 2003. The spring began with a deceptively mild weather which was not to last: freezing temperatures and hailstorms in early April culminated in a devastating frost on April 11, which nipped most of the Chardonnay vines in the Côte des Blancs, and destroyed up to three-fourth of its potential harvest.

What would already have made for an eventful year was only the beginning, though: over the summer, the most intense heatwave in 53 years lead to the earliest harvest since 1822. Fortunately enough, the grapes were perfectly ripe and in exceptional sanitary condition. Overall, the contrasting weather conditions contributed to an extraordinary richness and concentration.

The features of a vintage gifted with such a personality as 2003 will inevitably make their way into the wine, as they should. Actually, such an extreme vintage can sometimes even be considered too forceful. This is exactly where my challenge lies: finding the perfect balance between the expression of the vintage and the singularity of Dom Pérignon, turning a contrast into a resonance. In this specific case, the richness and intensity of the vintage responds to the usual vibrancy and tactile presence of Dom Pérignon. In my tasting notes, desciptors such as spices, candied fruits or licorice, although not altogether foreign to Dom Pérignon, convey the uniqueness of the vintage; whereas Dom Pérignon asserts itself through briny, smoky notes on the nose, and its signature minerality on the palate.

Finally, as the year 2003 was unfolding, the challenge awaiting me became clearer and I sought the inspiration of older vintages in our Oenothèque: 1947, 1959 or 1976. All these great wines from solar vintages had easily managed to weather the decades, as they all seemed so fresh and alluring. The acidity level was a riddle in itself, but the key was to focus on freshness, which could be reached through minerality as well as vibrancy of the fruitiness. I’m convinced that the intensity coupled with such a precise, chiselled phenolic structure will confer to Dom Pérignon Vintage 2003 the stability through time I desired.

My greatest hope is that, in the history of Champagne, Dom Pérignon can endure as the greatest tribute to the 2003 vintage.

Milestone

Cellar Door at Hautvillers Abbey

Dom Pérignon Œnothèque was launched in 2000, long enough ago to look back on what started like a revolution and now feels so natural. We went full circle earlier this year through the addition of Rosé to the Œnothèque program—this was quite an event! Our offer remains limited but consistent, with only two assemblages, White and Rosé, each available in successive Vintage and Œnothèque releases. Ten years ago, when we decided to open the door of our wine library and make the treasures of Dom Pérignon available to the outside world, my feeling was first and foremost of pride. Nothing personal, as I did not create these vintages, yet proud I was of the incredible longevity of Dom Pérignon and the contributions of my predecessors. The former Chefs de Cave had indeed been visionary enough to put all these great vintages aside, purely for the sake of memory and legacy.

Bottles in the wine library of Dom Pérignon Bottles in the wine library of Dom Pérignon

Dom Pérignon keeps pushing one step further, sometimes rewriting the rules, to pave the path for renewed experiences. So does Œnothèque, glorifying the exclusive process of actively aging a wine on its lees to offer a magnified style through re-releases. Œnothèque prolongs the character of the original Vintage wine, coming ever closer to the ideal of Dom Pérignon. The patience of wine lovers is now rewarded with a deeper, more intimate discovery and perception of Dom Pérignon. The current Vintage is put in proper perspective by giving a glimpse of the aging potential. It would now be virtually impossible for me to imagine Dom Pérignon without its Œnothèque expression.

Bottles in the wine library of Dom Pérignon
Bottles in the wine library of Dom Pérignon

Photos: Mi-Hyun Kim

Plénitudes

Following my invitation as a guest on the Wine Berserkers forum, here is the second question I selected, asked by Alan Weinberg:

How much age do you like to see on a bottle of Dom Pérignon before you drink it–peak or ideal is what I’m looking for. And what are your favorite vintages–any century? What are the next vintages planned–after 02?

Regarding the first question, it of course depends on whether we are considering the bottle before or after disgorgement.

After disgorgement, we do the utmost so that Dom Pérignon can be enjoyed right after release, not only defining carefully the timing of disgorgement but also waiting for at least another 6 months before releasing the bottles. From that point onward the wine will keep developing gracefully for at least 20 years, if not more. As for myself, I particularly enjoy Dom Pérignon 3 to 5 years after disgorgement.

If we now consider the wine on its lees (therefore while still undergoing yeast maturation, also called autolysis), I can see 3 windows of opportunity, or plénitudes: the first one 8 years after the vintage (which is when Dom Pérignon Vintage is released); followed by a second plénitude between 12 and 15 years after the vintage (which is the first Œnothèque release); and finally a third plénitude 30-40 years after the vintage (which leads to a second Œnothèque release, for example 1969 or 1971 right now). After this point I would say that the wines evolve only extremely slowly, with a steadier development curve.

Regarding the second question, I could answer it in two different ways. Either by mentioning the most recognized vintages, based on pedigree (e.g. 1921, 34, 47, 55, 59, all our vintages in the 60s, 73, 75, 76, 82, 85, 90, 96, 02). Or by considering the attachment I have for certain vintages, which is of a more intimate nature, typically due to the challenge they created: some of the time in the vineyard like 1969 (strict sorting of the grapes to a satisfactory quality) or 1980 (with very late borderline harvest); or in the cellar such as 1988 (as sharp as a razor blade, with the risk of being hollow on the midpalate—fortunately we managed to avoid that…) or 1996 (we had to master the impetuous and provocative character of the vintage, including the necessity to resist the temptation to incorporate some oxidative, forward developing Pinot Noir elements despite their charming nature).

Coming to the last question, all I can say is that the 2000s were an exciting decade, very generous with all the regions of France. On a purely technical basis we could have declared all the vintages except 2001. However we chose not to, but you will have to be patient to discover our decisions!

(You can find all the questions and answers on the special archive forum on Wine Berserkers.)