August is not the best time of the year to go and visit New Orleans. The weather can be miserable. Nevertheless my family and I decided we would make it to NOLA during the one (and only!) month that French people dedicate to vacation. More than anything the purpose of the trip was to humbly contribute to the clean up of the oil spill—the most recent in a long list of catastrophes to hit New Orleans. Unfortunately our original plan could not materialize. Despite the climatic conditions (three storms in one week…), we decided to enjoy the best New Orleans has to offer. The least I can say is that we were at the same time captivated and moved: New Orleans is no doubt a very special place.
The atmosphere, vibrantly alive, struck me right away: a combination of energy, joy and ease that I can only associate with this town. Just as impressive is the strong sense of community, a clear outcome of countless years spent struggling against adversity, in particular in the aftermath of hurricane Katrina five years ago (and the ongoing issue with coastline erosion and subsidence). One would characterize New Orleans as a city intent on surviving against all odds—which certainly explains the never-ending opportunities for celebration (Mardi Gras!) and the welcoming attitude of locals, who offer a true sense of friendship. Add to that the sensuality of the multicultural heritage, the omnipresence of great music (ah, Frenchmen Street…), the formidable attachment to the Saints football team (it is always weird for a Frenchman to see so many Fleurs de Lys abroad!) and you can start touching the soul of this very unique city, which sets it apart from the rest of the country.
And the food… yes, the food! It has achieved cult status in New Orleans, as if the whole city revolved around it. This unlikely mix of French, Creole, Cajun and American influences (to mention only a few!) is a main component of its heritage and culture. It was fusion food before its time, a worldly sophistication that elevates good cooking to a true cuisine. We felt we had to celebrate this by visiting as many restaurants as we could. Great times were had all around, but two locales really stuck out: Galatoire’s and John Besh’s August. I will remember these two dinners for vastly different reasons. Still, looking at them together, they encapsulate the ideal combination I am trying to achieve at Dom Pérignon: unashamedly respectful of their origins and tradition, yet ever willing to search for the quintessential and explore further the different facets of style.
Founded in 1905, Galatoire’s represents the epitome of tradition, the reassuring certainty that some things simply never change. The menu, the place, the waitstaff, the show, the patrons, the lunches turning into dinners… everything remains the same, yet on Fridays people are still queueing around the corner of the street for a table (another tradition, actually!) Galatoire’s is not just a place, just a restaurant, just an outlet for culinary prowess: it is an essential part of the living memory of New Orleans. One simply cannot go there without ordering a Sazerac cocktail, pommes soufflées with béarnaise and oysters Rockfeller. This leads me to August, a much more recent endeavour by extremely talented, highly acclaimed and charismatic chef John Besh, a native from Louisiana with a rather unusual background. His restaurants would certainly be one of the high points of any gastronomy tour of the United States, with this specific quality I particularly appreciate: the food there finds its roots deep into the heart of Louisiana, yet keeps pushing further and further into the realm of contemporary, ethereal, purified dishes with a strong emphasis on sustainable and local products.
New Orleans has developed an intriguing singularity and a strong community during its history spanning almost three centuries. I have obviously only scratched the surface, but I am certain that NOLA will keep surprising and delighting us forever.
