Archive for the ‘Looking Back’ Category

Milestone

Cellar Door at Hautvillers Abbey

Dom Pérignon Œnothèque was launched in 2000, long enough ago to look back on what started like a revolution and now feels so natural. We went full circle earlier this year through the addition of Rosé to the Œnothèque program—this was quite an event! Our offer remains limited but consistent, with only two assemblages, White and Rosé, each available in successive Vintage and Œnothèque releases. Ten years ago, when we decided to open the door of our wine library and make the treasures of Dom Pérignon available to the outside world, my feeling was first and foremost of pride. Nothing personal, as I did not create these vintages, yet proud I was of the incredible longevity of Dom Pérignon and the contributions of my predecessors. The former Chefs de Cave had indeed been visionary enough to put all these great vintages aside, purely for the sake of memory and legacy.

Bottles in the wine library of Dom Pérignon Bottles in the wine library of Dom Pérignon

Dom Pérignon keeps pushing one step further, sometimes rewriting the rules, to pave the path for renewed experiences. So does Œnothèque, glorifying the exclusive process of actively aging a wine on its lees to offer a magnified style through re-releases. Œnothèque prolongs the character of the original Vintage wine, coming ever closer to the ideal of Dom Pérignon. The patience of wine lovers is now rewarded with a deeper, more intimate discovery and perception of Dom Pérignon. The current Vintage is put in proper perspective by giving a glimpse of the aging potential. It would now be virtually impossible for me to imagine Dom Pérignon without its Œnothèque expression.

Bottles in the wine library of Dom Pérignon
Bottles in the wine library of Dom Pérignon

Photos: Mi-Hyun Kim

The King’s Menu

 

Royal ballotine of pheasant
Petit pâté en croûte à la bourgeoise
Fresh deep-sea oysters
Lobster aspic chaud-froid


Beef madrilène with gold leaf spangles
Puréed chestnut soup with truffles from the Court of Italy
Bisque of shellfish from our coasts with a boletus infusion
Pumpkin soup, fresh from the Royal vegetable garden


Scallops with oyster liquor
Wild duck cromesquis à la Villeroy
Hare stew
Roast beef, carrots and smoked eel
Wild salmon au sel


Green and fresh herb salad in gold leaf
Rice salad à la royale
Morel soufflé
Iced cheese
Hard-boiled egg


Edible Candle

 

 

Royal ballotine of pheasant / Michel Jolyot Fresh deep-sea oysters / Michel Jolyot Bisque of shellfish from our coasts with a boletus mushroom infusion / Michel Jolyot
Pumpkin soup, fresh from the Royal vegetable garden / Michel Jolyot Hare stew / Michel Jolyot Roast beef, carrots and smoked eel / Michel Jolyot
Wild salmon au sel / Michel Jolyot Edible Candle / Michel Jolyot Magnum of 1976 Dom Pérignon Œnothèque / Michel Jolyot

At The King’s Table

(c) Palace of Versailles / Todd Eberle

Great wines are blessed with a transcendental quality: they are the time machine bringing the finite of fruit into the infinite realm of imagination and emotion. One year ago (to the very day!), we embarked on a journey back to the seventeenth century, the Palace of Versailles and the Sun King’s table, with the help of Dom Pérignon Œnothèque.

Galerie des Glaces / Todd Eberle Waiting for the guests / Todd Eberle Magnums of 1976 Dom Pérignon Œnothèque / Michel Jolyot
Welcoming guests and announcing the menu / Michel Jolyot

Pierre Pérignon, unanimously recognized as the spiritual father of Champagne, was the exact contemporary of Louis XIV. We know that the Sun King loved Père Pérignon’s wine more than any other; cases upon cases were ordered for his court and his table. More than three centuries later, it was legitimate to go full circle and hold an incredible event in homage to the King and his vision of a luxury à la Française, re-creating the mythical Sun King’s Table. But more than a re-creation, it had to be a performance, a true ceremony in the name of pleasure: in the Antichambre du Grand Couvert, the exact place where the King took his meals every evening, re-opened for the first time for a reception, a banquet prepared by Jean-François Piège in the spirit of the era, served by waiters in livery, and accompanied by a unique wine throughout: the solar 1976 Dom Pérignon Œnothèque.

Pouring 1976 Dom Pérignon Œnothèque from magnum / Michel Jolyot
'Barley grain' flutes / Todd Eberle
Table layout and decoration / Michel Jolyot Pheasants / Todd Eberle

Harvest, Take 3

Vineyards after the harvestThe harvest ended more than one week ago: I wish we could rest and enjoy the current Indian summer but there is still a lot of work to be done. Bringing the crop in is a real achievement in itself, but the winemaking part is still in progress and will require considerable efforts before we can finally relax. The base wines will not be finished and ready for tasting before early November.

The harvest itself went reasonably well. As I mentioned before, the maturity of the grapes has reached very satisfying, largely above average levels, a relative surprise given the weather conditions over the summer. Chardonnays were healthy and the botrytis in the Pinot Noirs was to a large extent a non-issue—we only had to pay attention at the time of picking. However the very last days of the harvest were quite rainy and it was really time to finish. This harvest leaves us all with the great feeling of having done our utmost: good things should come out of it, but it is hard to say more right now. As usual, patience is key.