I am writing this entry from my office, overlooking the vats where the wines of 2009 are maturing. My team and I obviously keep a close eye on them!
2009 has been an atypical year, which aroused unaccustomed (and almost imprudent!) enthusiasm in many of us before the harvest. The grapes were in extrordinary healthy condition up to the last day of picking and satisfactorily ripe—without quite reaching the level we had so hoped for, a phenomenon that will give me food for thought for years to come. I had a few doubts after the very first tastings, but the wines have settled and developed, and now show a good prospect of distinction.
The quest for the final blend is a work in progress that will reach its conclusion in March. I am dedicated to the creation of the perfect assemblage, and I plan to come back to the crucial issue of blending in more detail in a future blog entry. The first step is to create a mental representation of the wines (no fewer than 50 of them!) and also group them by their characteristics. This is exactly what we have been doing until now after tasting all the wines for the third time—at this stage we start to have enough hindsight for a fair assessment of the vintage. The assemblage, which is the foundation of Dom Pérignon’s singularity, should then emerge gradually and naturally from this approach (and yes, with an element of inspiration and talent as well…). Only then will we decide whether to declare the vintage…
The 2009 wines appear extremely fine and very different from those of 2008—the Champagne community can look forward to comparing the respective merits of the two vintages for many years to come: 2008, concentrated, intense, with an unashamed balance in acidity; 2009, just as well structured but more rounded, richer, fleshier, at this stage much more seductive.
On the whole perhaps slightly less homogeneous than in other years, the Chardonnays are full-bodied, remarkably well balanced; fat, energetic, with very persistent aromas—all these qualities being prominently displayed by the Chardonnays from Cramant. The Pinot Noirs offer strong presence and good structure. At their best (e.g. from Ay) they are the revelation of the year, powerful, with aromas of exotic fruit and spices; supple and rich with an exceptionally good finish.
2009 is an apt finish to a decade during which nature has been very generous to all the regions of France, and Champagne in particular. This vintage seems to have a high potential but I am afraid you will have to wait until 2018 to learn of our decision!
Photo: © Michel Jolyot for Dom Pérignon
Richard,
Congratulations on this wonderful and informative blog. You are once again setting a trend with unbridled passion and honesty that others will follow . 2008 vs. 2009: I can’t wait to find out how they grow up over the next decade (though I admit to preferring 2008 for right now).
The best way to communicate and to give more “humanity” to the myth. Congratulations!
About 2009, the salt, the sapidity and the minerality will give very long and beautiful life to this vintage, as usual for DOM.
Thank you for this blog, I am so pleased to learn that the birth year of my first son was such a blessed year for french wines. I look forward to be able to order a few bottles, so my son can enjoy a great Champagne for each big events of his life.